FESTIVAL OF NEPAL|KINGS

On the third day, before the full moon, ecstatic mobs gather near Hanuman Dhoka for the long awaited procession of the living goddess Kumari, considered the guardian and ruling deity of Nepal. After the king tosses a handful of coins, the chariot of the Living Goddess, along with her two attendants, Ganesha and Bhairav, is pulled through the city along the ancient, prescribed routes. The procession continues for three days. On the last day, as the Kumari procession returns to Hanuman Dhoka, it pauses twice, once at Indrachowk in front of the Akash Bhairab and again at the twelve-foot mask of Swet (white) Bhairab, recessed in the wall of Hanuman DhokaBehind each mask, big jars of rice beer are set up, with tubes leading out of Bhairab's mouth. When this sacred liquor is made to run through the tube, people jostle one another to catch a few drops of beer in their mouths or cupped hands, because the recipient is believed to receive powerful blessings from Bhairab. Moreover, each person hopes to catch a tiny, live fish, earlier placed in the beer, when it passes through the Bhairab's mouth; for, according to legend, that would make him/her the luckiest person in the valley.Meanwhile, when the chariot of Kumari, along with Ganesha and Bhairav s chariots, reaches the front of Kumari House, an ancient tableau is reenacted -- the ten earthly incarnations of Lord Vishnu, known as "Dasha Avatara." Thousands of people throng to see the elaborate costumes and realistic, painted masks and hear the beloved stories of Lord Vishnu's marvelous visits to earth, followed by ancient dances, like the "Lakhe Dance," "Sawo Bhaku Dance" and "Elephant Dance" in the city streets, lit by flaming torches.Everything that starts must end, however, and after a weeklong venture, on the final evening the "Yosin," bearing Indra's flag, is lowered amidst religious ceremonies, thus signifying the end of the Indra Jatra festival.MORE